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Thursday, July 29, 2010

Play Ball!

Before trying any other raglan sleeve patterns, I thought I'd try drafting one to compare the fit. I used directions from Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting for Womenswear. The raglan-sleeve adaptation is based on the same basic tee sloper/block I used for top #1 and top #2. I hadn't perfected the shoulder fit in the basic sloper, but went recklessly ahead with the raglan sleeve version anyway.

One weakness of the book - and probably other drafting books/methods - is that shoulder slope and position/rotation aren't accounted for (although width is). In his book, Shirtmaking, David Coffin uses a simplified draping method for fitting the shoulders and neck. Even though I really avoid doing muslins in general, I might break down and try doing a little draping (sometime in the distant future). For example, Coffin has you drape fabric cut from an existing pattern piece (yoke, bodice front, sleeve, etc.) to determine where you need to reshape or dart.

Well, here is the result of the raglan-drafting effort. You can see the fit is much better than my Ottobre versions, probably because the shoulders here are wider. I'll probably continue to tweak the shoulder fit, but I'm very happy with this comfortable shirt.


4 comments:

  1. It looks lovely on you...a much better fit than the others...you appear to have very broad shoulders in the last photo...and a narrow back. Just thought I'd throw that in there!
    Did you get your hair cut? It looks lovely.

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  2. This fit does look great. I've always liked the look of a "baseball" t-shirt. You are sure to get a lot of wear out of this one!

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  3. Yes, thanks, Millie! Shorter hair for summer!

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  4. I just got a copy of this book last week. I also hoped to make a raglan T and an encouraged by your lovely version.

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