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Sunday, July 11, 2010

Raglan Lemons

In non-summer months, I pretty much live in long-sleeve t-shirts, so having a tried-and-true raglan-sleeve pattern will be very useful. Too bad Ottobre 5-2008-8 isn't it. The charcoal grey was my first attempt and I thought the entire neckline (including the tops of the sleeves) seemed very wonky. But since the whole top is rather tight, I thought that might be the problem.

So I went up a size for the white version. It's much more comfortable, but I think the neckline is even worse because it's no longer being stretched out. You can see how it's not lying flat and there are funny bumps sticking up here and there.
The following photos are for those of you who love assessing wrinkles: (I was depending on the good graces of my 9 year old for these detailed photos)...

Above: front shoulder.



Above: back shoulder view.
Below: view from the back.


I'll still wear these, but will move on to other raglan patterns. Once I get some mental storage space freed I will try drafting my own with instructions from Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting for Womenswear.




3 comments:

  1. They both look nice on you, but no one wants a shirt that doesn't feel like it fits. What sort of fabrics are you using? I've made the version with the shoulder tuck sleeves #14 twice and I really like that. One thing about the shoulder tucks, is they aren't just ornamental, they give the raglan shoulder shaping. Raglans that don't have a seam down the arm or at least a dart down the shoulder don't have a shoulder shape. You can see this if you spread the shirt out flat, the sleeve forms a a diagonal line from neck to wrist. With the tucks, the sleeve bends around the shoulder. Not sure if this would help with your fit, but you might give the tucks a try or try a fabric with more stretch.

    I'll be curious to see how the Aldrich raglan works. I've drafted her long-sleeve t-shirt but never did the raglan variation. Good luck.

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  2. I thought the smaller version seemed to fit better too - I wonder if you have square or broad shoulders, that produces horizontal wrinkles across the back. Palmer Pletsch have a number of alteration suggestions for that in a raglan style. T shirts are really quite forgiving though so its probably only you who really notices - noone else will be paying such close attention!

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  3. Here's my (not particularly well-informed) two cents: I think you might have a broad back but slightly sloping shoulders. The horizontal wrinkles are from the broad back. The excess fabric in the upper shoulder area is either because you have a sloping shoulder OR that the pattern is just too big in that area (the fix would be the same regardless though, right?). My assessment of wrinkles is always "if I could pull on this to remove the wrinkles, where would I pull?"... to me it looks like if you just pulled straight up from the shoulder, you'd have most of your wrinkles solved. So I agree with Jne4sl that this pattern could maybe have used a dart in the shoulder seam...

    Did that make any sense at all?

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