Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Pattern Alteration Resource

A while ago, I did extensive googling to find some online pattern fitting help, and stumbled on Texas A&M University's Extension Service. There are a number of books (Fast Fit is pretty good) and websites (such as vintage sewing) out there dealing with fit but this is by far the best online source I've found. The diagrams show you an example of poor fit, wrinkles and all, and then give you the illustrated paper pattern piece solution.

Here are links to individual articles addressing fitting issues (they are pdfs). Please let me know if a link doesn't work.

Principles of Pattern Alteration

Personal Measurement Chart

Bodice Back Width

Lengthening and Shortening

Even Hip Circumference

Shoulder Slope

Protruding Hip Bone

Waistline

Back Hip Fullness

Location of Bust Fullness

Special Alterations for Pants (crotch depth, thigh circumference, large pones*)

Prominent Posture Problems

Upper Arm Sleeve Width

Hollow Chest

Sway Back

Shoulder Length

Large Abdomen

Increasing Bodice Front Fullness (FBA)


*I'm assuming "pones" refer to a body part, but the best my dictionary sources can give me is "cornbread" or "the player to the right of the dealer". If you have a problem with your cornbread, please refer to a cookbook.

6 comments:

  1. -snort cough choke-

    I am, well... almost speechless in my struggle to think of a definition for "pones". I mean, maybe it was supposed to say "large bones", but really, that's a fitting problem? I mean, even I'm not so oblivious as to think my bones are what's causing my fit problems... although now that I think of it....


    you crack me up!

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  2. Good list - thanks for sharing!

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  3. Er, this might help:

    http://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/51115

    L

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  4. Hey this looks like a great list of resources. Thanks for doing all the hard work and sharing what you discovered. I haven't clicked on any yet, but I plan to!

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  5. Pones are otherwise known as "saddlebags".....(perhaps from eating too much cornbread????). Whatever they are called, I would be very happy to get rid of mine!

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  6. Don't overlook this one http://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Singer-Sewing-Reference-Library/dp/B000S6O4TO/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1281431121&sr=1-3 an oldie but goodie. Excellent photos of what exactly is meant by 'a standard big butt' vs 'an extremely big butt' etc :-). And small easy adjustments for moderate deviations, with the extreme measures left for the extreme deviations. Never seen that in any other book..

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Sorry to add word verification. Too much spam lately....