Thursday, March 31, 2011

Plaid, welts, and a brass zipper

Is it a jacket or a blouse? Once I put the zipper in and tried it on, I wished I had used a heftier fabric because it has a jacket feel to it. I really like having pockets in my shirt!
I was drawn to this pattern because of all the interesting details: the unusual faux waistband (it's just a flap stitched onto the waist); welt pockets with flaps; inverted pleat in the back; waist pleats; a funnel neck; and the front zipper.

The inverted pleat sticks out a bit, probably because of the lighter weight shirting I used. Because of the pleat, the bottom half of the blouse is plenty roomy.

This is my 4th set of welt pockets. My first were pretty funny. The next two pairs were on the boys' trench coats and easily done because of Ottobre's nice pictorial instructions. Burda's welt pocket instructions leave much to be desired.

I finished this blouse, moderately pleased with the details, tried it on and immediately got that familiar suffocating feeling I always get from RTW blouses. (Does that sound melodramatic or what?) What did I do wrong? I thought I had my Burda alterations pretty well figured out. I dug out the pattern pieces and, sure enough, I'd forgotten to alter the sleeves. I altered the shoulders, and even the collar and facings, but not the sleeves. Those pesky shoulder knobs were pulling all the fabric out of whack. Yes, I plan to cut new sleeves with shoulder knob ease.


Plaid shirting: I looked through my pictorial fabric swatch file (on the computer) and can't find this fabric. This one slipped through the cracks and is probably from or Mill End.

Pattern: Burda 5-2009-112


  1. I recognised that pattern immediately - I have always like it - and it looks great on you -hope the sleeves are easy fixed.

  2. I love this! The back is so great--love that inverted pleat!!

  3. Yes, yes! I'm all for pockets in shirts. Where else, pray tell, could clip-on sunglasses and cell phones go?! Zipper on a shirt? Well, maybe that's going overboard for me. But you know me. A bit stuffy about some things.

  4. I really like the design details in this! Great job on your welt pockets.

  5. I like the collar and the pockets on this. Not to mention--you make it look comfortable and "wearable"...

  6. wow that's a cool top. so many unique design elements! I really like the plaid for this pattern.

  7. I love that inverted pleat and I agree, Burda instructions can be head-scratchers.

  8. This top looks great, maybe you could make another one from heftier jackety material?

  9. I really like this top, it looks terrific in the shirting.

  10. You did a great job on what looks like a tricky pattern to sew up!


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