Sunday, November 27, 2011

Mustikka is for Blueberry

Thank goodness for google translate, since I certainly don't have a Finnish-English dictionary laying around. Now I know "mustikka" is Finnish for "blueberry".

I've been wanting to make the Mustikka Romper for a long time, but Molly keeps growing out of the size I've traced. But then an old friend had a baby girl, and I had the perfect size traced and waiting.

The front closes with an invisible zip and the back is seamed instead of cut on the fold. All the fabrics are from Chez Ami, conveniently coordinating with each other.

Sources:
Pink interlock and printed jerseys: Chez Ami
Mustikka Romper: Ottobre 6-2009-4
Rille Raglan Sleeve T-shirt: Ottobre 6-2008-1

I hope all my American readers had a wonderful Thanksgiving week. We had a lovely time celebrating with both sides of the family, once on Thursday and again on Saturday.

Saturday, November 19, 2011

XI

Peter turned XI last month. Using Roman Numerals for his age shirt was his idea, but I used the idea first on his brother's shirt (IX) because his birthday came sooner.

I have to admit, since I studied Chinese in college, the first thing I think of when I see "xi" is the Mandarin word "west".

I used freezer paper stencils and am pleased with how it turned out. I seem to get the best results with black fabric paint, possibly because it gives the best coverage over colors.

I can't believe he's 11, sniff. I don't know where all the years have gone. Only 7 more years 'till he can vote! Will he want an XVIII shirt then?

Sources:
Black and grey jerseys
Reko Raglan Sleeve Top: Ottobre 4-2008-26

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Roger M.

Just a year ago I made matching trench coats for my boys, the spy duo. Spying is dirty and dangerous business and tragedy struck when boy #2's coat became so dirty it needed washing. The tragedy happened when the lining fabric (even though I'd prewashed it) bled and turned the coat a nasty, splotchy green color.

He was so sad, I promised him a new one. I may have forgotten about it, but he never did! So here's the new one.

Last time, I used a twill, but for this coat I used some nice cotton gabardine. It has a slight sheen to it, and is a much better quality (and yet cost less).

I love all the details on this coat and, this being the third time I've made it, they went more quickly.
Do you recognize these buttons? Alex fell in love with the buttons I used on my blue jacket, and luckily I had enough left over.

The lining is flannel and I used twill tape for the hanger loop.

The lining and shell are hemmed separately, which is much speedier than bagging the hem and squeezing the coat through a hole in the sleeve.

Storm flap.

One happy detective.

Sources:
Gabardine: Mill End Textiles 1.25 yards @ $1.60/yd.
Flannel: Mill End Textiles 1 yard @ $2.99/yd
Buttons: Wooden Artist
Roger M. Trenchcoat: Ottobre 4-2009-27

Monday, November 14, 2011

Jalie Parka Pattern Giveaway Winner!


The winner of the fabulous parka pattern, Jalie 2008, is Erica!

Congratulations, Erica! Contact me with your address and I will send your new pattern on its way.



Friday, November 11, 2011

Corduroy Appreciation


Have you been wearing corduroy today to celebrate 11/11/11, the day that "most resembles corduroy"? I have. I've been wearing my tan cords made from Burda 9-2009-113.

Being a cordophile, it's not surprising that I stumbled upon the Corduroy Club sometime last year. I didn't join, but maybe I should?

I remember my love of corduroy began in 3rd grade with a pair of light grey, pin wale corduroy elastic waist pants which I wore as often as I could. This was the eighties, the era of stirrup knit pants and bright bulky sweaters. But these wonderful, comfy pants with the appealing vertical ridges blinded me to fashion. Or it could be they transcended fashion.



I was really hoping to finish a whimsical 1970s corduroy jacket with blue birds in time for 11/11/11, but haven't even had time to prepare the pattern. Hopefully you'll see it soon.

Are you relieved I didn't buy enough fabric for matching pants?



Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Birds in a Corduroy Sky

I planned this as an outfit, thinking mainly of the colors of the fabric and not so much of the styles of the garments. A slimmer shirt would have showcased the shape of the skirt better.

Sara loves the shirt, though, and it's something she'll wear a lot, but it's a lightweight shirting and maybe I should make a version in heavier fabric for winter.

I was amazed to find I had some lace in a perfect match to this teal. I so rarely use lace trim - I'm not sure I've ever used it. But I do have a small stash of it, just in case. I might as well start using it!
The back closure has a small facing and closes with a loop. For the loop, I used a very narrow trim I found and, amazingly, I had a button in the perfect color, too.

My husband bought me this Japanese pattern magazine a couple of years ago and this is the first garment I've made from it. Just like the women's magazines Mrs. Stylebook and Lady Boutique, this has some patterns to trace, but most you draft. For this magazine, however, you don't use slopers, you use the measurements given for specific sizes, usually with a choice of three different sizes. For instance the pattern I used was a traceable one and came in 3 sizes for height: 100 cm, 110 cm, and 120 cm.

I had a little fun with the skirt. I can't decide if the embroidery is more Boden or more 1970's couch pillow.

When I made this skirt once before, I mentioned how I liked the clever zipper finish. It turned out a little neater this time.

Sources:
Paisley shirting: Mill End Textiles
Teal thin wale corduroy: Mill End Textiles
V-neck blouse: Child Boutique 11-2007-14
Garden Flower Skirt: Ottobre 1-2010-20

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Jalie Parka Pattern Giveaway!

Preparing to make my husband's hunting outfit, I ordered a couple of patterns and notions from Seattle Fabrics. It's always exciting (maybe addictive?) to get such packages but I have to admit my heart sank when I discovered two copies of the Jalie Parka pattern. I don't how it happened, but I never noticed there were 2 in my shopping cart. If I was going to buy another pattern, there are plenty of Jalie patterns I have my eye on!

If I returned the pattern, I figured I'd get very little money back after shipping costs and the restocking fee. So my husband had the great idea to do a giveaway. Maybe you will benefit from my silly mistake!

Leave a comment if this is something you would make. My version of this parka is here. Here are the pattern specifications.

I'll do a drawing next Sunday, November 13 and am happy to ship internationally.

Friday, November 4, 2011

Blaze Orange, Part 3

Piece 3 of the blaze orange-a-thon is the coat, by far the most time-consuming, but then also the most satisfying to have completed.

The full suit is a little frightening, but I think now my husband will be highly visible to everyone but deer.
The sun glinting off this fabric makes it seem very neon orange, which it isn't. We took this photo this morning in the frosty air, and hubby was able to confirm his new suit is very warm. When/if it warms up in midday, the lining of the pants can be removed, and he can take off the coat and wear his purchased sweatshirt or blaze orange tee.

At the outset, making this coat seemed a little daunting because of the multitude of details, but I have to say, Jalie's instructions and illustrations are really excellent. I followed them (mostly!) step by step and had great results.

I saved myself a lot of stitching and topstitching time by connecting the pattern pieces for the sleeves and front and back which are supposed to be color blocked and pieced.

My husband, the visionary, couldn't help but improve on the pattern concept a little: cargo pockets. I actually think Jalie 2008 is amazingly well-detailed and professional looking with the exception that there ARE no pockets on the lower half of the coat, where you would normally put your hands. So it made sense to add some cargo pockets. If I had had more time, side seam pockets would have been nice, too, since cargo pockets are better for storage than for hands.


The pattern calls for zippered welt pockets covered by a flap. The flap is supposed to start at the bottom of the bodice yoke, but since I eliminated that, the flap starts in mid-air.

Welt pocket in the beginning stages.
Jalie's instructions for the zippered welt pockets are the best I've seen. They include a pattern for the welt strips with seam allowance included, so you are guaranteed they'll be the right width. "Fold in half and stitch a guide line down the middle" is fairly precise. The instructions included a lot of "guideline stitching" which I found to be really helpful.


Zippered welt pocket hidden under the flap. A loop of cord is attached to the zipper pull.

Cuff. One side is elasticated. The velcro flap allows for a custom wrist fit.


Adjustable shock cord in the hem.

Adjustable shock cord in a casing at the waist. The cord is strung through a casing in the shell, pulled through button holes, and pulled through button holes in the lining to the inside.

Inside out. I used quilted supplex for the bodice only. A heavier weight fleece seemed better for the sleeves, hood lining, and bottom since the supplex was a little stiff and not very cozy.


Hood peak.

Hood closure: velcro and adjustable elastic cord.

Collar.

Back view.

Verdict:
I'm extremely pleased with how the coat turned out and I felt the instructions and pattern were top-notch. And my husband is very happy with his new coat.


Sources:
Parka pattern: Jalie 2008.
Orange camo microfleece (?): $5/yd from S.R. Harris.
Quilted supplex: $6/yd from S.R. Harris.
Grey fleece: $1.29/yd from remnant table at Mill End.
Cord stops: $5 for 4 from Hancock Fabrics. (Plus 1 random one from stash).
Long zip: $3 from Seattle Fabrics.
Pocket zippers and velcro: stash.
Snaps: included in my snap pliers kit.

Total cost: about $35, not including the pattern.