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Sunday, June 24, 2012

Portfolio Pants


In my last post, I threatened to foist upon you some abominable photos featuring a tucked-in shirt. Good sense (and vanity) got the better of me and I recommissioned the photo shoot. These are a vast improvement, trust me.

These pants are from the much-acclaimed Lisette Portfolio pattern, although I've seen many many more tunics from the pattern made up than the trousers.


I was surprised they fit as well as they did, since I've never made a non-vintage Simplicity pattern for myself and didn't know what to expect. Since I usually make Burdastyle pants and sometimes Ottobre, I'll use those as a reference for my fit analysis.

1. With both Burdastyle and Ottobre, I have to flatten out the outseam/upper thigh curve, otherwise the sides stick out like oompa loompa pants. I think this is a posture issue. Anyway, it seems these were even roomier, as I had to remove more than an inch at the outseam, which is tricky to do neatly when you have a zipper in the side seam. (Note I installed the zipper after adjusting the side seams.)

2. The crotch curve is different (shallower?). If I make these again (or any other pants pattern for that matter) I will save myself the fitting trouble and just trace the curve from a previously used pattern. Why reinvent the crotch curve wheel every time?

3. The size chart is off as numerous reviewers have pointed out. I'll refrain from telling you what I think about inaccurate charts. But, I ended up sewing one size smaller than my measurements indicated and definitely wouldn't have wanted to go smaller unless I had a fairly stretchy fabric.


Otherwise I'm okay with the fit. I know I'll sometimes miss having pockets. And it's a shame that the neat button feature won't be overly visible unless I make some shorter shirts.


Sources:
Lisette Portfolio 2245
Cotton gabardine (yum!) from Mill End Textiles.


18 comments:

  1. Cute!! Those pants have been totally overshadowed by the tunic, which is too bad - the button tabs are great and it doesn't sound like it was too much work to get a good fit. They look great!

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    1. I know - they've been overshadowed. Maybe that's partly because a tunic seems easier than pants. I made the tunic too, though, and I think it's technically more difficult.

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  2. I'm always looking for the definitive pants pattern, so thanks for the review. The button tabs are a nice feature, but, I agree, nothing beats pockets.

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    1. I'm not sure if this would be the definitive pattern, but I don't mind trying out different patterns once in a while for variety's sake.

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  3. It's good to see successful pair being worn & talked about! They look great on you Joy, & the button tab & yoke is anice feature ....however as you say fitting with side zip & yoke is not a pleasure ! I have revisited mine & found that I've lost weight *& they no longer fit - the prospect of taking them apart to refit is not appealing - i'm trying laszy fixes....I dont think I'd make them again, but youve managed them great so I'm happy to see someone succeeding with them :-)

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    1. Thanks! I'm not sure if I'll make them again, either. However, if I tweak the crotch curve, as I said, I know they'll fit well.

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  4. These are cute pants, but I wouldn't want to mess around with fit AND a side zip- yikes! You really did a great a job! I mostly sew Burda pants too.

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    1. Thanks! I like Burda because it's predictable.

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  5. These look wonderful, i love the button tab details.

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    1. Thanks! The button tabs definitely make the pants.

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  6. The pants look great on you, Joy! You need to get busy and make some shorter tops or start tucking.:)

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    1. There's the dilemma! But if I had to choose, it'd be the shorter top (: Some people just aren't made for tucking, I think.

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  7. They look great. I love the button tab.

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  8. That's a brilliant idea. I think you're onto something by having a crotch curve template on hand.
    I'm not a tuck in girl either. I only do this to show the fit of trousers. The detailing is wonderful.

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  9. I love the little button tabs--such a cute detail. Tucking is a scary prospect, but it is really hard to photograph pants well. Every pair of pants I make, I feel like I have to choose between tucking or disembodied shots of my posterior!

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  10. Interesting! I made a pair of these and they are too high in the rise to be comfortable but they are so nearly right that I want to try again.
    Yours look great! And I love the print of your Portfolio dress! :)

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  11. These are great. I love your blog and sewing and family. Reminds me of myself when my two were that age and I sewed everything as well. So much fun. Your kids are precious.

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