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Monday, October 28, 2013

Jersey Blazer


Before I begin this post, maybe you will join me in mourning...It was a double-blow day. First was the email from Chez Ami announcing the end of their 35-year contribution to the fabric world. Then came the postcard from my favorite local fabric store: after 45 years, they are going out of business.

*** moment of silence ***

carrying on....


I was planning on letting the peplum craze pass me by but, as you can see, I succumbed in this case. It's a very subtle peplum, isn't it?

I loved this pattern as soon as I saw it in the magazine (Ottobre 2-2013-12), but the right fabric eluded me. Finally, I settled on this ponteroma. I was always intrigued by ponte di roma - not to be confused with ponte knit, or double knit...actually, I still am confused. If there is some consistency in labeling and fiber content, I haven't figured it out. Anyway, the synthetic-y feel put me off.

But....while shopping at our local fabric mega-warehouse, I ran across this lovely red pontesomethingorother, conveniently unlabeled altogether, and decided it could be perfect for this cardigan.

Since I spent 10 sweaty minutes prying the bolt out from under 23 other bolts, I thought I might as well buy the blue colorway, as well. Make sense?


 The fabric is beefy, yet lightweight and quite stretchy. Here I've layered it over some bulky garments; a smoother layering piece might work better underneath.

There's a long facing piece that runs along the center front and back neckline. The raglan sleeves are split (and sewn as darts.) Getting the shoulder darts to lie smoothly in this stretchy fabric took a few tries. I did a square shoulder adjustment (which I will try to document at some point).

I wish I had interfaced the garment at center front and not just the facing pieces, as the buttons want to pull and stretch out the buttonholes.

Otherwise, I love it and have found it to be very comfortable, even layered over my Lisette shirtdress.


27 comments:

  1. I too loved that pattern as soon as I saw it - it looks great on you!

    Have you ever tried corded buttonholes? They are wonderful for holding buttonholes firmly in place in knit fabrics

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  2. Thanks! Corded buttonholes....I'll definitely have to read up on those!

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  3. This looks lovely! I too am working on a coat for myself and have been debating on how to proceed with the buttonholes. It's a wool blend that I'm lining in flannel.

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    1. Thanks! And good luck on your coat!

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  4. Oh - I feel your pain :(
    As for the jacket - you make the patterns I would like to make! I loved this when I saw it in Ottobre and your version is just as good. I like the can be casual/can be smarter vibe. Also, great autumnal colour!

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    1. I guess we think alike! I agree - I like the sort of casual/sort of smart vibe.

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  5. I looked into ponte di roma after you first shared the pictures of this on flickr. And I ended up so confused! Is it always polyester? All I keep thinking of is the elastic waist poly pants with a slight sheen that women of a certain age seem to wear. And I don't like that!

    I love your jacket, it looks like a great layering piece. I plan on making myself one...as soon as I find a fabric that I like (and that isn't shiny!).

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    1. That confusion is exactly why I'm hesitant to buy this fabric online - the one time I did, I received the most horrible poly fabric perfect for "those pants". But this stuff is entirely different. The nasty stuff was 100% polyester; I'm thinking this fabric was a poly/spandex/rayon blend. It's much softer and has stretch.

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  6. How cute! I think peplums on jackets are such a fun detail, and per Ottobre's m.o., this one is a good balance of the style and being highly wearable and feminine. Ponte confuses me too--I only buy it if I can feel it--I have visions of the gross polyester stretchy pants my Great-Grandma started wearing at a certain age. But there's some good stuff out there--but is it ponte? I have no idea.

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    1. Thanks! I think this jacket does have good proportions.
      When I'm looking at fabric contents for the different pontes, I'm seeing 100% polyester and blends with poly/rayon/spandex. Maybe there are other blends-my fabric was unlabeled.

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  7. Really nice color. The fit is perfect, Joy. I have been considering bound buttonholes on a jacket I am making. Just need to test if it wouldn't be too thick to handle. Sorry to hear about those stores. Is it because of retirement or poor business conditions?

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    1. Thanks!
      I believe both of the store closings are due to retirement. It's sad, but hopefully that means there's still a good market for fabric!

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  8. Love the jacket and it's slight peplum shape. The color is perfect for fall and the fit looks excellent!

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    1. Thank you! I always like red for fall/winter. Maybe I'll have to make a spring version (:

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  9. I got that postcard, too. I yelled so loud the entire neighborhood must have heard. Later I had to explain to the children and husband why my life just fell apart.

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    1. And forgot to add: but tried to look on the bright side - at least we still have SR Harris and don't have to settle for JoAnn for real apparel fabric. Never mind that shopping at SRH for lining will feel like a bit like going to Costco just to buy a can of soup.

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    2. I was wallowing in misery for a while. Maybe I still am...At least SR Harris is not tooo far away, but it's so much more overwhelming than Mill End was. And will I be able to get top quality polar fleece for a few dollars? No.

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    3. I just got the email yesterday actually. I cried inside. Any reason why they are going out of business? Didn't they just open a new store in St. Paul? So sad.

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    4. I thought I remembered them opening up a new store in St. Paul recently, too. I googled around quite a bit and finally found an article from the local paper of one of their stores - it said the owners were retiring. ): If only I had the capital to buy a fabric store chain!

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    5. No kidding! They have a ton of stores. It is sad they wouldn't just sell or promote another family member.

      Too sad!!! I really don't have any fun options down here anymore. Hancock's is it unless I drive 2 hours one way to Madison!

      (ps. so funny you googled around to find the answer. so smart of you!)

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  10. That turned out lovely. Very nice.

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  11. This looks very nice. I've never sewn ponte but I know some folks really love it. There's a lot of mystery fabric at warehouses. It would be nice if they could provide some fabric info! So sorry to hear about your local fabric stores closing - how awful. My condolences!

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  12. Those little round pockets are so cute! And the jacket is a wonderful match for your denim shirtdress. If anybody ever discovers the secret of choosing the right ponte/double knit, I am all ears.

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  13. I often wonder if the "Ponte" name is a new way to market what is essentially double knit, though the typical fabric content these days of poly, rayon, lycra, is wonderful compared to the old poly double knits. This fabric has won me over. It makes great dresses, yoga pants and wonderfully comfortable jackets. Your jacket is so pretty and I especially like the color. Red is my favorite color.

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  14. I do like this jacket. It's got the peplum with out being a 'loud' peplum.

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  15. I'm in East Central Minnesota and I JUST got the news yesterday!! I went to "introduce" a new sewing buddy to Mill End in St. Cloud and found everything 30% off for a store closing sale. I am SOOOOOOOOO bummed just like many of you. So sad :-( Your jacket is wonderful!!!

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