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Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Deer and Doe Sureau


I took advantage of the warm weather (20F/-7C, yeah!) to snap some outside pics. My usual photo spot is buried in 4 foot drifts, so I chose the driveway which, alas, was too sunny.

I'm going to assume you're thinking about my new dress and not making any snarky remarks about the correlation between the snow and my complexion.

This is Deer and Doe's Sureau Dress (sureau = elderberry). The bodice is gathered to a faux button placket. A zip is in the side seam. The skirt is also gathered.



I took the time to do a real muslin of the bodice (something I rarely do) and worked on some general fit issues I've been wanting to tackle. So, my list of standard bodice adjustments grew longer, blech, but they are all very simple to do. The amazing thing is that a tiny adjustment can make such a huge difference in fit.

In case you're interested, I improved my square shoulder adjustment (thanks Jen!) and added a small rounded upper back adjustment. Do you see the diagonal drag lines running from the back neck to the underarm? Well, they were much worse. Only now that I see the back bodice in a photo (and not just in the mirror) do I see I could increase my adjustment a little. (Edited to add a link. I slashed horizontally across the very upper back, added at the center back, tapering to 0 at the armscye. Here's a more complicated version of what I did: Rounded Upper Back Alteration. Type "pattern alteration" into the search engine in this resource for excellent illustrated instructions for other adjustments.)

As for the dress itself, I'm very pleased with it. After my usual fit adjustments, it fits great and is super comfortable.

I did make 4 changes to the pattern:
1. raised the neckline almost 2", which had the side effect of altering the neckline shape a little
2. did a 1" anti-gaping tuck in the upper bodice
3. flattened the sleeve cap (see photo below)
4. lined the skirt since I used a lawn

In future, I will lengthen the skirt a tad (I'm 5'4".) I used a hem facing to get this length.



Look to my sidebar on the left for a tutorial on flattening your sleeve cap (aka removing the ease), but this photo shows what I cut off. The difference in fit between the altered and unaltered is negligible, but one is more pleasant to sew.


Oh, and yes, I did make one of those ubiquitous Plantain t-shirts, also from Deer and Doe.



25 comments:

  1. After the cold you've just had, I can see why this was a warmer day.
    Nice work on both pieces. They fit just nicely.

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    1. Thanks, Maria! This is a new favorite dress. Next week it should be getting warm for real, yay!

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  2. Yay for warm days! I'm looking forward to 38 this week. Your complexion fits in well with our area ;-)

    This dress is perfect - another pattern I have to buy LOL. I think your rounded back adjustment is a good one - adding that to my mix too.

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    1. It looks like we should be in the 40s next week. It'll take a while for the snowpack to melt, though.

      I think blogs are better advertising for patterns than anything else, hehe! This one's definitely a favorite.

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  3. I love the dress! Did you buy your pattern directly from Deer & Doe or have you found a supplier on this side of the Atlantic? This has been some winter, hasn't it? Hopefully, warmer weather is on the way.

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    1. Thanks, Cindy! I really love it, too. I bought the pattern directly from Deer & Doe. It seems they sell only through brick & mortar stores or their own site.

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  4. The dress looks great Joy! Thanks for sharing your adjustments. I always enjoy reading how people tailor a pattern to fit. The tee is adorable! Love that blue color fabric. It looks like such a nice, soft fabric. Do you mind sharing where you go it please?

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    1. Thanks, Kathy! The blue fabric is cotton/lycra from Chez Ami (it looks like they have some in stock). It's very beefy with extremely good recovery (which in this case means my shirt feels kind of tight! )

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  5. Oh, this is a lovely dress Joy! a really nice style and it looks so pretty on you. -7C is "warmer weather"? oh my, that is amazing, to me. But I'm sure spring must be well on its way to you now :) Just for interest's sake, it's 36C here today!

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    1. Thanks, Carolyn! And yes, -7 is beautifully warm comparatively! Here, 36 is unusual - just the hottest few days of summer.

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  6. This is such a beautiful dress and I love the fabric print you used! Look at all that lovely snow! Our kids would be having a grand time with that!

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    1. Thanks Shirley! I had been saving this print (it's actually a small floral) for something good.

      My kids have had a lot of fun in the snow (you can't see it in the picture, but there's a big tunnel next to me), but now I think they're getting sick of it.

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  7. Thats a very cute dress. Wait! Aren't you wearing any tights?? I get cold just looking at you :-) We had the last frost these days, hopefully.

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    1. Thanks, Uta! Ha, we ran outside, quick took the pictures, and then ran inside - being careful not to slip on the ice.

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  8. Joy, that dress is so you! Perfect. For your rounded back adj. did you add a shoulder dart?

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    1. Thanks, Silvia! For the adjustment, I did not do a shoulder dart. I slashed horizontally across the upper back, and added at the center back, narrowing to 0 at the armhole.

      Here's a resource showing a more complicated version of what I did:

      Rounded upper back adjustment.

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  9. Perfect timing making a dress like this as we are all hoping that we can start sewing for spring! I have this pattern and live it, but it's interesting that you've made so many adjustments, makes me think that I'll maybe make a muslin too. The fabric is perfect for the style I think, lovely! Cute plantain too!

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    1. Thanks, Winnie. And yes, I was more than ready to start spring dress sewing!! I don't think this pattern needed more adjustments than any other pattern (except the danger of neck gaping), but I'm really glad I did muslin it.

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  10. I really like the small scale print you have used for that dress...a great match! The elbow patches on your t-shirt are cute.

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    1. Thanks, Katherine! This lovely print lawn has been curing in my stash for a while; I'd thought it was going to be a shirtdress, but this is what came of it instead.

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  11. Oh how cold is that. I just can't get over the amount of snow you get! Anyway very brave with bare legs and the dress is really cute. I have thought about trying Deer & Doe patterns myself as I heard they were drafted with a C cup in mind, which would make alterations easier for me (I fantasize). Did you notice any difference with the upper bodice in comparison with Big 4 patterns?

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    1. Thanks, Philippa. Honestly, I haven't made enough Big 4 patterns to make a good judgement. But, I would say the fit was comparable to Burda and Ottobre, with a little more bust room. At least in my size, there seemed to be slightly less bust room than in Colette (which also claims to draft for a C).

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  12. You are having great successes with Deer and Doe patterns. The dress styling is really cute, and the knit top fits well. Love the floral print elbow patches and neck trim. So fun!

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    1. Thanks, Audrey! I really enjoyed this dress pattern. Their coat might be next on my list.

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  13. Joy!

    You have now been nominated for the Leibster Award. Check out the details here.


    http://handmadedresshaven.blogspot.com/2014/03/the-leibster-award-thank-you-for.html

    ReplyDelete

Sorry to add word verification. Too much spam lately....

 

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